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Stravinsky and the Fashion Revolution of 1916

In The Cleveland Orchestra Archives, a single scrapbook usually contains press clippings related to the better part of a season. But the press surrounding the promised arrival of the Ballet Russe occupies a book of its own.

By Michael Quinn

February 18, 2019

A newspaper depicts women in lavish black and orange coats.

When, in late 1915, the newly founded Musical Arts Association announced its intentions to participate as a host city for the Ballets Russe’s first ever American tour, mouths watered. In The Cleveland Orchestra Archives, a single scrapbook usually contains press clippings related to the better part of a season. But the press surrounding the promised arrival of the Ballets Russe occupies a book of its own. Yet one cannot overcome a sense that the ballet itself took second place to the glimpse into unchartered culture promised by Igor Stravinsky’s and Leon Bakst’s production. Sketches of contorted dancers in decidedly foreign attire circulated as speculation about what was sure to be a spectacle.

a newspaper illustration shows two people dancing
Article from The Cleveland Leader with a headline that reads “Ah, Yes, Diaghileff’s Ballet Russe! It’s Coming Here With All Its Daring” and containing original sketches of dancers in costume by Leon Bakst, February 1, 1916.

Clevelanders warmly embraced fresh inspiration, infusing their closets and kitchens with all things Russian. “Spring Styles from Farther than Paris—From Russia!” read the headline of a 1916 article in the Cleveland Press promulgating the Russianness of all things “in.”

newspaper photographs of women in ornate headdresses
February 17, 1916 article from the Cleveland Press with a headline that reads: “Spring Styles from Farther than Paris—From Russia!” depicting in-vogue fashion pieces, including a feathered hat and traditional Russian garment.

Local clothiers obliged, replacing the lampshade tunics and hobble skirts of Parisian couture with Bakst-inspired dresses recognizable for their exaggerated A-line shape.

a newspaper illustration depicts and striped and beaded handbag
Article from The Plain Dealer that reads: “Hints of Bakst” and advertises the sale of a handbag inspired by the Russian designer Leon Bakst, February 1, 1916.

The excitement culminated in the opening performance on March 17, 1916, where concert-goers flaunted their fresh looks; sketches copied in a series of newspapers following the premiere depict women donning their latest Russian-inspired habiliments.


A newspaper depicts women in lavish black and orange coats.
Article from The Sunday Leader with a headline that reads: “Society Notables at the Ballet Russe Premiere as Sketched by Artist” containing sketches of concert-goers on opening night, March 19, 1916.
audience members are sketched in evening attire
Article from The Plain Dealer with a headline that reads: “As Seen at the Ballet Russe” containing sketches capturing fashion choices of Petrouchka attendees, March 17, 1916.

To be sure, the Musical Arts Association ushered in more than new music with its opening concert.

Article from The Cleveland Leader with a headline that reads: “Ballet Passes, But Memories Linger,” March 19, 1916.

— Michael Quinn was the 2018–19 season archives research fellow. The fellowship is an opportunity for graduate music students from Case Western Reserve University to work with The Cleveland Orchestra Archives.

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